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Discovering the old district of La Macarena, one of Seville's hidden treasures

 



Seville has numerous different barrios just waiting to be discovered, but some of the lesser known districts often get overlooked by visitors who head straight to the tourist hotspots of Santa Cruz and Triana. One of these is the Barrio de La Macarena. Located to the north of the city centre, La Macarena is enclosed by the best-preserved section of the ancient city walls. This stretch of the Almohad fortification connects two of the three remaining gates that allowed access to the city. The horse-shoe arched Puerta de Córdoba is adjacent to the San Hermenegildo Church, a 17th century temple dedicated to Saint Hermenegildo. Local legend claims that the saint was beheaded in front of the Puerta de Córdoba after rebelling against his father, the Visigoth King, Liuvigild, in 585.

The monumental Puerta de la Macarena is next to the Basilica Santa María de la Esperanza, the temple that houses one of Seville’s most worshipped images of the Virgin, La Macarena. Although all sacred images in Seville have their dedicated followers, there is a long-standing rivalry between the devotees of La Macarena, and those of La Trianera, which is housed in the Capilla de los Marineros in Triana.

The wooden statue of Our Lady of Hope La Macarena dates from the 17th century, although the neo-baroque church that houses the image was built in the 20th century. The procession of La Macarena takes place in the early hours of Good Friday and it is one of the largest and most ardent in Andalusia during Semana Santa.

The oldest market in Seville is located in an 18th century building in Calle Feria, and this offers a traditional and picturesque scene of daily life in the district. It was in these streets that Murillo is said to have selected beggars and urchins as models for his paintings. The area boasts several interesting churches and convents, like the Mudéjar Church of Santa Catalina. Situated in Plaza Terceros, this 14th century church has a tower inspired by the Giralda. Just a short walk from the church, one will find Seville’s oldest bar, El Rinconcillo. Founded in 1670, this charming tavern has absorbed centuries of history and preserves the nostalgic ambience of old Seville. Another wonderfully traditional tavern that serves excellent tapas and offers a large selection of wines and sherries is the Bodega Soto in Calle San Luis.

The Andalusian parliament (Junta de Andalucía) is housed in the former 16th century Hospital de la Cinco Llagas, a fine example of Late Renaissance architecture. Other places of interest are the 14th century gothic San Román Church (Plaza San Román); and the Covento de Santa Paula (Calle Santa Paula), which boasts a beautiful belfry. The Convent Museum is crammed with precious paintings and sculptures by artists such as José de Ribera, known by his contemporaries as Lo Spagnoletto, (the little Spaniard); and the baroque sculptor Pedro de Mena, whose image of the Virgin Mary was damaged by a group of mischievous schoolchildren.

One place that is not usually on the tourist itinerary, but which is well worth visiting, is the San Fernando Cemetery, a 20-minute stroll from La Macarena. This huge cemetery houses one of the biggest collective exhibitions of priceless accolades accessible in the city. The full magnitude of the extravagance confronts one immediately on entry. The life-size monument reflecting the funeral procession of bullfighter Joselito is an outstanding piece of artwork. One of the most striking sculptures in the cemetery is a crucified Christ of great size and beauty known as the Christ of Honey. It is the creation of Antonio Susillo Fernández, who committed suicide shortly after completing the piece. Sussillo’s Christ is unique because he had carved the right foot in the wrong position. Only one foot is positioned correctly; the other sits at a different angle. Custom declares the right foot sits upon the left and through which the third nail of the crucifixion was inserted.

Susillo is said to have been so ashamed of the mistake he hanged himself in his studio. Another version says he jumped to his death from the top of the Giralda. The most accepted theory is that he took his own life because of financial and marital problems.

Photograph. Frobles (Wikipedia)

Excerpt from the book, Seville: a city of marvels. https://www.amazon.es/Tony-Bryant/e/B00S19QOWK/ref=ntt_dp_epwbk_0

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