Tony Bryant

  The district of El Arenal is the heart of the bullfighting culture of Seville. Bars and restaurants are decorated with photos and memorabilia of Seville’s most famous matadors, along with framed newspaper cuttings and posters relating to celebrated fights that have taken place in the Maestranza Bullring. The district is entered via one of the city’s old gateways, El Postigo de Aceite. This 12th century archway was once used to bring oil in to Seville; hence its name of the ‘gateway of oil’. It is one of only three remaining medieval gateways of the old wall that surrounded the city until the 19th century. [1] Because of the architectural environment and narrowness of the arch, it is a spectacular point from which to watch Seville’s opulent Holy Week processions. Next to the arch is the enchanting Capillita de la Pura y Limpia, a small chapel that was built in the eighteenth century. El Arenal does not offer the mainstream shops found in the centre of Seville, but it does offer s...

  Santa Cruz is a labyrinth of narrow streets and alleys dating back to the middle ages and it is the second most important Jewish quarter in Spain (Toledo being the first). One will discover charming bougainvillea covered houses in secluded, picturesque squares, like the Plaza Alfaro and the Plaza de Santa Cruz. On the corner of the Plaza Alfaro, as one enters from the Murillo Gardens, there is a delightful 15th century house, complete with decorative balconies and a turret typical of the luxurious mansions of Seville. Opposite the house, one will discover Calle de Agua, a medieval street which runs along the old city walls and the Alcázar Palace.  Plaza Alfaro attracts artists and musicians (usually flamenco guitarists) and is a popular tourist stop, so an early morning visit is advised if one wants to beat the crowds. Heading east through the pretty gardens will lead to the Plaza Santa Cruz. This square was once the site of the Iglesia de Santa Cruz, a parish church constru...