El Arenal: a taste of traditional Seville

 

The district of El Arenal is the heart of the bullfighting culture of Seville. Bars and restaurants are decorated with photos and memorabilia of Seville’s most famous matadors, along with framed newspaper cuttings and posters relating to celebrated fights that have taken place in the Maestranza Bullring.

The district is entered via one of the city’s old gateways, El Postigo de Aceite. This 12th century archway was once used to bring oil in to Seville; hence its name of the ‘gateway of oil’. It is one of only three remaining medieval gateways of the old wall that surrounded the city until the 19th century.[1] Because of the architectural environment and narrowness of the arch, it is a spectacular point from which to watch Seville’s opulent Holy Week processions. Next to the arch is the enchanting Capillita de la Pura y Limpia, a small chapel that was built in the eighteenth century.

El Arenal does not offer the mainstream shops found in the centre of Seville, but it does offer specialist clothes shops selling typical feria and romeria attire. The area behind the bullring is famous for its hat shops: these are ideal places to pick up polka-dotted neck scarves, cummerbunds, walking canes and iconic Cordovan sombreros, all essential items for those wanting to engage in the festive spirit of Seville.

Although this area attracts the tourists (mainly to the bullring and its museum), it has adhered to the rhythm and ambience of old Seville. This is a popular area for those that enjoy spontaneous flamenco outbursts and the dancing of sevillanas. Many of the bars in Calle Arfe are renowned for their afternoon party sessions, which attract flamenco aficionados and, on occasion, celebrated performers. Two in particular that are well worth checking out are Arfe II and Casa Matias.

Arfe II is well established and extremely popular with the locals because it presents impromtu flamenco sessions during the afternoons on Saturdays, Sundays and during times of fiesta. This is the type of venue where musicians turn up to participate in a jam-style session, while customers participate with spontaneous outbusrts of dance. This is advisable for the visitor who wants to encounter a little of the Sevillian way of life, because it offers a true demonstration of their love of the fiesta.

Casa Matias has character and plenty of history, as the dusty old bottles and paraphernalia surrounding Seville’s devotion to Semana Santa, flamenco, and bullfighting will demonstrate. This tiny bar is also famed for the spontaneous flamenco sessions that take place over the weekends, although there is no set schedule; it is a case of being there at the right moment.

This area boasts one of Seville’s better flamenco tablaos, although, as with the majority, the cost of drinking and eating will be considerably higher than the previously mentioned bars.

El Arenal (C/ Rodo 7) is situated in a 17th century building and claims to offer a pure and genuine flamenco show. This tablao has been entertaining flamenco aficionados for more than 30 years and its popularity was boosted when the New York Times described it as “the best flamenco in Seville”. The flamenco is entertaining, but the highlight of the show is the fin de fiesta (the final act), when all of the performers are encouraged to engage in an outburst of dance, recreating the traditional Gypsy family fiesta.

This area has no shortage of decent eateries. Among the most popular is Cinco Jotas, which takes its name from the highest grade achievable for Jamón Ibérico. Famed for serving succulent ham from the acorn-fed pigs of Jabugo, the menu is based around the nature and richness of the meadows of Southwest Spain and includes specialties like garlic soup with ham, homemade ham croquettes and Iberian pork meatballs. The restaurants popularity is highlighted in its booking policy, as reservations for dinner must be made 24 hours in advance. Reservations for tapas are not necessary.

For a slightly less extravagant ambience, one should visit one of the traditional Spanish café bars that are dotted along Calle Arfe. Esquinita de Arfe is one of the area’s longest serving establishments. The outside seating area is a great location to soak up the ambience of this old district. Being close to the bullring, the décor is taurine, with photographs and paintings relating to the history of this popular Sevillian pastime. This is a good location to watch the Holy Week processions, as many will pass through this district, but one will have to arrive early to get a seat. One of the popular dishes eaten during Easter are tortillas de camarones (prawn fritters), and these are a specialty of the house. 

For a somewhat different experience, one should visit Productos de la Sierra (C/ Adriano 18), an old-fashioned delicatessen famed for its excellent hams, chorizo and black pudding. This tiny shop specialises in Iberian products, Manchego cheeses, olive oils, wines, honey and marmerlaides that have been produced in Andalusia. The aromas alone are enticing, but the appeal is the fact that this small shop is a central meeting point where the locals gather to chat each morning. Corner shops and barbers serve as a cultural tertulia where men congregate to air their views and opinions. Shop keepers and barbers have always been a good source of information concerning anything to do with the area simply because they engage in polite conversation on a daily basis. Of course, one of the main topics of conversation in this district is the bullfight and the Maestranza Bullring (Paseo de Cristóbal Colón). 

Excerpt from the book Seville: a city of Marvels

https://www.amazon.com/Seville-city-marvels-Tony-Bryant-ebook/dp/B08F4F24CY/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=seville%3A+a+city+of+marvels+tony+bryant&qid=1598272340&sr=8-1


[1] Puerta de la Macarena, Puerta de Córdoba and Puerta de Aceite are the three remaining of the eighteen medieval gateways that once gave access to Seville.