Plaza Alfaro attracts artists and musicians (usually flamenco guitarists) and is a popular tourist stop, so an early morning visit is advised if one wants to beat the crowds. Heading east through the pretty gardens will lead to the Plaza Santa Cruz. This square was once the site of the Iglesia de Santa Cruz, a parish church constructed on the ruins of the old synagogue. The square has a shaded central garden and one of its attractions is the tranquil atmosphere, which is only interrupted by the buzzing of the Cicalas that reside in the trees during the July and August.
Situated at the top end of the square is Los Gallos, one of the oldest flamenco clubs in Seville. The stage of this celebrated venue has been the platform from where many of the top flamenco artistes of the 20th century launched their careers. Another well-established flamenco venue is also close by, in Calle Céspedes. Recently rehoused in its new home, La Carboneria takes its name from the old coal yard where the club began back in the early 1960s. This is a popular destination for music lovers, because it has built its reputation on delivering a truly authentic flamenco atmosphere. It became famed for giving unknown flamenco performers a chance to be heard. It is one of the best places in the city to witness the deep, authentic style of Gypsy flamenco, because there are no microphones or amplifiers, so one will witness the art how it is supposed to be enjoyed. Here you will see the most spectacular styles of dance performed by up and coming artistes; while impromptu sessions are often sparked by the arrival of a celebrated performer. The establishment also presents jazz and blues nights, while buskers are often found performing in the small area as one enters the main bar. This is one of the exceptions where prices are concerned, because, unlike the tourist tablaos, entry is free and drink prices are of the same structure as an average bar.
Situated at the top end of the square is Los Gallos, one of the oldest flamenco clubs in Seville. The stage of this celebrated venue has been the platform from where many of the top flamenco artistes of the 20th century launched their careers. Another well-established flamenco venue is also close by, in Calle Céspedes. Recently rehoused in its new home, La Carboneria takes its name from the old coal yard where the club began back in the early 1960s. This is a popular destination for music lovers, because it has built its reputation on delivering a truly authentic flamenco atmosphere. It became famed for giving unknown flamenco performers a chance to be heard. It is one of the best places in the city to witness the deep, authentic style of Gypsy flamenco, because there are no microphones or amplifiers, so one will witness the art how it is supposed to be enjoyed. Here you will see the most spectacular styles of dance performed by up and coming artistes; while impromptu sessions are often sparked by the arrival of a celebrated performer. The establishment also presents jazz and blues nights, while buskers are often found performing in the small area as one enters the main bar. This is one of the exceptions where prices are concerned, because, unlike the tourist tablaos, entry is free and drink prices are of the same structure as an average bar.
Heading back to the Plaza Alfaro, one should follow the extremely narrow Calle Lope de Rueda, which will lead to the Calle Tereasa. Here, at number 8, lived Bartolomé Esteban Murillo, the celebrated 17th century Baroque painter. His home is now a small museum dedicated to the artist’s life and work. Next door to the museum is the Institution of Flamenco, while opposite is the 16th century Convent of San José del Carmen.
One of the most popular taverns is the Bodega Belmonte, a well-established restaurant dedicated to bullfighter extraordinaire Juan Belmonte. The interior is adorned with photos and paintings depicting highlights of his career; along with mounted bull’s heads and paraphernalia of the bullfighting world. The cuisine is a reflection of the traditional Sevillian and Andalusian gastronomy and offers dishes like gazpacho, revueltos (eggs scrambled with serrano ham, mushrooms or king prawns) and grilled artichokes. The menu offers plenty of meat and fish options, with specialties like red deer stew or grilled octopus. One should also try the huge olives, probably the most delicious in Seville.
Another popular haunt (its attraction is in its traditionality) is Café Las Teresas, in Calle Las Teresas. Founded in 1870, this place offers an authentic ambience of Seville and it is one of the places that most tourists want to photograph. The interior is typical of Andalusia, complete with dazzling, hand-painted tiles, hams dangling from the ceiling, old pictures and cuttings concerning Seville’s illustrious history and the abundant aroma of yesteryear.
Situated a short walk from the cafe, the Plaza de la Alianza offers a magnificent view of the Giralda. This romantic square is where the former studio and home (now a boutique hotel) of the renowned American painter and bullfighter, John Fulton, was situated. A small plaque on the wall of the hotel states that it was the former home and workplace of the artist.
Fulton was one of only two Americans (the other was Sidney Franklin) to receive the alternativa, the ceremony in which a novice becomes a full matador. On arriving in Spain in 1956, Fulton met his mentor, Juan Belmonte. Fulton performed as a novillero (novice) with several of Spain’s leading bullfighters, before receiving the title of matador after he was given his alternativa in Seville in 1963.
Fulton supplemented his earnings by selling his paintings and guiding writers like James Michener during his research for the book Iberia. He also wrote his own book on the art of bullfighting, as well as working as a double for actor Peter O’Toole during the filming of Laurence of Arabia.
Fulton retired from the ring at the age of 60, when he settled in Seville to concentrate on painting. Many of his most popular works were painted with bull’s blood. He died of a heart attack in Seville in 1998.
The small square where Fulton lived and worked attracts local artists, whose paintings, usually of Seville landmarks, can be acquired at reasonable prices.
Of particular interest as one enters the square is a hand-painted plaque of Cristo de las Misericordias, an iconic image of the Christ of Mercy that belongs to the Brotherhood of Santa Cruz.
Bodegas Santa Cruz, known by the locals as ‘the columns’, is another great place to soak up the local spirit. Many of Seville’s celebrities enjoy a midday glass of sherry here, and it is particularly popular during Easter, when it attracts local aristocracy and socialites.
Situated a short walk from the cafe, the Plaza de la Alianza offers a magnificent view of the Giralda. This romantic square is where the former studio and home (now a boutique hotel) of the renowned American painter and bullfighter, John Fulton, was situated. A small plaque on the wall of the hotel states that it was the former home and workplace of the artist.
Fulton was one of only two Americans (the other was Sidney Franklin) to receive the alternativa, the ceremony in which a novice becomes a full matador. On arriving in Spain in 1956, Fulton met his mentor, Juan Belmonte. Fulton performed as a novillero (novice) with several of Spain’s leading bullfighters, before receiving the title of matador after he was given his alternativa in Seville in 1963.
Fulton supplemented his earnings by selling his paintings and guiding writers like James Michener during his research for the book Iberia. He also wrote his own book on the art of bullfighting, as well as working as a double for actor Peter O’Toole during the filming of Laurence of Arabia.
Fulton retired from the ring at the age of 60, when he settled in Seville to concentrate on painting. Many of his most popular works were painted with bull’s blood. He died of a heart attack in Seville in 1998.
The small square where Fulton lived and worked attracts local artists, whose paintings, usually of Seville landmarks, can be acquired at reasonable prices.
Of particular interest as one enters the square is a hand-painted plaque of Cristo de las Misericordias, an iconic image of the Christ of Mercy that belongs to the Brotherhood of Santa Cruz.
Bodegas Santa Cruz, known by the locals as ‘the columns’, is another great place to soak up the local spirit. Many of Seville’s celebrities enjoy a midday glass of sherry here, and it is particularly popular during Easter, when it attracts local aristocracy and socialites.
The interior, although small, is typical of Seville, while the outside terraced area is supported by huge marble columns that gave rise to the bars affectionate name. The tapas menu is extensive and offers everything one would expect of a bar in the centre of Santa Cruz, but its specialty, and something most visitors recommend, is a wedge of the homemade Spanish omelette (tortilla). 
Santa Cruz has a quaintness that will relax even the most frustrated tourist, and one cannot fail to fall in love with the romantic ambient and tranquil pace of the daily routine. While wandering around the cool, narrow streets, it is easy to understand why visitors are so enchanted by its beauty. The area offers an assortment of boutique shops selling bullfighting and feria posters, small sculptures of the city’s famous land marks, and religious ornaments reflecting Seville’s Holy Week tradition. Attractive tapas bars, elegant restaurants and time-honoured bodegas are found in abundance and these are excellent places to enjoy traditional Sevillian cuisine at its very best.
Santa Cruz has a quaintness that will relax even the most frustrated tourist, and one cannot fail to fall in love with the romantic ambient and tranquil pace of the daily routine. While wandering around the cool, narrow streets, it is easy to understand why visitors are so enchanted by its beauty. The area offers an assortment of boutique shops selling bullfighting and feria posters, small sculptures of the city’s famous land marks, and religious ornaments reflecting Seville’s Holy Week tradition. Attractive tapas bars, elegant restaurants and time-honoured bodegas are found in abundance and these are excellent places to enjoy traditional Sevillian cuisine at its very best.
From the new book, Seville: a city of marvels
Comments
Post a Comment