The quiet district of Triana, situated on the west bank of the river Guadalquivir, was once home to countless renowned Gypsy bullfighters and flamenco performers, and it is saturated in myths and legends concerning these two arts.
Historically linked to the river, Triana sheltered the majority of Seville’s criminal sector during the nineteenth century: it also accommodated more Gypsies than any other town in Spain. The Gypsies lived in the area known as the Cava de los Gitanos.
The streets that run parallel with the river - Calle Betis and Calle Puerza - are where one will begin to understand the ambience of this old district. The houses in these quiet streets are adorned with ceramic plaques remembering illustrious writers and poets, courageous bullfighters and celebrated flamenco singers that were born or lived there during the golden age.[1]
Two monuments that highlight Triana’s association with bullfighting and flamenco can be found as one crosses the bridge (Puente de Isabel II) to enter the district: The ‘Monument to Flamenco’, and an unusual bronze sculpture of bullfighter Juan Belmonte.
Probably the most revered matador of the last century, Belmonte is said to have broken every excepted rule and paid the penalty repeatedly. Determined to succeed as a bullfighter, even though he was born with a deformity of the legs, he invented a technique that brought him much closer to the bull’s horns than earlier matadors had dared, and his style changed the concept of bullfighting. However, Belmonte, did not die on the horns of a bull like his rival Joselito; he took his own life with a 6.35-millimeter pistol at the age of 69. Shortly before his suicide, Belmonte was diagnosed with lung cancer and the circumstances surrounding his death are the content of numerous parables. [2] One anecdote declares that he ended his own life after doctors had told him that he could no longer smoke cigars, drink wine or ride his beloved horses. He is reported to have said – ‘If I cannot live like a man, I can at least die like one’.
Triana was once the seat of the infamous Spanish Inquisition. Today, the municipal market stands on the site of the notorious Castillo San Jorge, while the tunnel that led many thousands of people to their fate remains as a reminder of this barbarous persecution of heretics.
Calle San Jacinto, the main street that runs through the centre of Triana, leads to the Iglesia de San Jacinto. The original church that stood on this site was built in the late 17th century for the Dominican Order. The current church was inaugurated in 1775, after the old one collapsed 1730.
Calle Jacinto is lined with trendy eateries and traditional bars, so it’s a popular area with locals and tourists alike. One of the most outstanding restaurants is Taverna Miami (C/ San Jacinto 21). With a predominantly taurine theme, the restaurant offers a bustling ambience that defines Triana. One thing that one cannot fail to appreciate is the fact that Triana has a totally different character than its neighbour on the other side of the river. This also applies to the residents, many of whom will defiantly disassociate themselves from their neighbours. Triana may not have the abundance of monuments found in the centre of Seville, but it can certainly boast a character that is uniquely different.
Calle Jacinto is lined with trendy eateries and traditional bars, so it’s a popular area with locals and tourists alike. One of the most outstanding restaurants is Taverna Miami (C/ San Jacinto 21). With a predominantly taurine theme, the restaurant offers a bustling ambience that defines Triana. One thing that one cannot fail to appreciate is the fact that Triana has a totally different character than its neighbour on the other side of the river. This also applies to the residents, many of whom will defiantly disassociate themselves from their neighbours. Triana may not have the abundance of monuments found in the centre of Seville, but it can certainly boast a character that is uniquely different.
A pleasant walk along the Calle Betis, which runs along the banks of the river, will lead to historic streets that ooze with cultural history. Many of the old bars in Calle Betis have been replaced by trendy tapas and cocktail bars that are popular with tourists, but a few of the nostalgic establishments have survived, although not necessarily in their original capacity. The Taberna Antigua Barberia is one of them. This bar is also known as Los Pajaritos because it was once a popular barbershop famed for the dozens of birdcages that hung on its façade. A plaque reveals that the shop counted many famous bullfighters and flamenco artistes among its clientele. Today, the tavern is favoured for its excellent position overlooking the Guadalquevir River and the Maestranza bullring.
Heading away from the river into the maze of tiny back streets will lead to the Iglesia de Santa Ana (C/ Vázquez de Leca).
This was the first Catholic Church constructed in Seville after Muslim rule ended in the city in 1248. Also known as the Cathedral of Triana, this colossal church contains within its wall’s countless works of art of great historical importance.
Heading away from the river into the maze of tiny back streets will lead to the Iglesia de Santa Ana (C/ Vázquez de Leca).
This was the first Catholic Church constructed in Seville after Muslim rule ended in the city in 1248. Also known as the Cathedral of Triana, this colossal church contains within its wall’s countless works of art of great historical importance.
Excerpt from the book - Seville: a city of marvels.
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[1] The period of 1850 until 1910 is often referred to as The Golden Age of Flamenco. This was a period when Triana was the epicenter of the flamenco scene and it was famed for being home to numerous pioneering flamenco singers.
[2] On hearing of his close friend Ernest Hemmingway’s suicide in 1961, Belmonte is said to have answered ‘Well done’. He appears prominently in two of Hemingway's books- Death in the Afternoon and The Sun also Rises: It has been suggested that Belmonte’s death was a copycat suicide.
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